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Preparing to
Stitch
First, comes
the purchase of your pattern. With the help of your LNS
owner, use the Color Key with the pattern to purchase
the floss, specialty threads, beads, fabric, and any
other items needed to complete the
design.
HINT: It can be
helpful to keep the pattern and all the items needed to
stitch the design together in one place. Remember to
keep scissors, needles, and a highlighter or colored
pencil (if you use one to mark the pattern) in the bag,
also. I find a gallon size zip top baggie works good for
me. If you use scroll rods, you may need something
larger to carry your work in, like a special tote bag.
This way, you can easily grab your needlework to take
along with you on long visits or appointments and keep
those stitching hands busy!
PREPARING
YOUR FABRIC:
There is
usually no need to wash needlework fabric before
stitching. You will need to finish the edges of your
fabric so it won't unravel while you are stitching. This
can be done several ways:
1. Use a
sewing machine overcast stitch or zigzag stitch around
all the edges.
2. Use a
serger and serge all the edges.
3. Hand
overcast the edges.
Experts have
recommended that you do not use fray check on the edges
of your fabric as it tends to bleed further into the
fabric as time goes by. Tape isn't recommended for the
edges of your fabric either as it may leave behind a
'gunky' residue.
After you
have overcast the edges of your fabric, fold the fabric
in half lengthwise and crease with your thumb. Then,
fold again in half widthwise and crease with your thumb.
When you open up the fabric, your center will be where
the two creases meet in the middle. Mark the center with
a tiny cross stitch, pin, or needle. You may wish to
also mark the top, bottom, and side centers if you plan
to start stitching at the top, side or bottom of the
design.
Next, you
need to decide if you wish to stitch 'in hand' or with a
scroll rod or needlework frame. Once you've made your
decision, then you are ready to begin stitching.
See "Reading
Needlework Charts" if you are unfamiliar with the
use of symbols and directions in
needlwork.
STITCHING IN
HAND:
Some
stitchers prefer to stitch holding their fabric 'in
hand." If your tension is good when stitching, you may
stitch this way. Your stitching should not change the
'look' of the fabric. So, if you find that the stitches
are opening up 'holes' at the corners or 'puckering' the
fabric, then you should use some type of needlework
frame, scroll rods, or hoop.
When
stitching in hand, it helps to roll the fabric with the
right side of the fabric on the inner side, to get to
your stitching area. By doing this, you avoid getting
the rolled edges dirty while stitching.
When
stitching in hand, you can go from front to back to
front in one movement with your needle. You can do much
of your stitching from the front of the fabric this way,
going to the back to begin or end a
thread.
Or, you can
stitch with the 'stab' method of pulling your needle
straight up from the back and pushing it straight down
toward the back. This will require that you move one
hand from the front to the back to pull the needle
through and vice versa.
If you have a
needlework stand, you can stitch with one hand on top of
the fabric and one underneath the fabric, so that you do
not have to move one hand from front to back over and
over.
Note: For
designs with specialty stitches, hardanger, and
needlepoint, scroll rods or some type of frame is
recommended to keep good tension while
stitching.
MOUNT YOUR
FABRIC:
There are any
number of needlework accessories for mounting your
fabric. Below are a few of the most
common:
STRETCHER
BARS:
Stretcher
bars come in length and width sizes. They are notched on
the edges to fit together and make a frame for your
needlework. You would want to buy stretcher bars that
are about an inch or so smaller than your fabric size.
This will enable you to attach the fabric over the outer
edges of the stretcher bars.
First, place
the top of your fabric about 1 inch over the upper edge
of your top stretcher bar. Using a stapler or tacks,
secure the fabric evenly across the top of the stretcher
bar.
Next, gently
stretch your fabric taut across the bottom edge of the
stretcher bars. Stapel or tack in place, keeping an even
tension on the fabric.
Repeat for
the two sides, keeping an even tension on the fabric all
around.
HOOPS:
Embroidery
hoops come in many sizes and are usually round, although
I've seen oval shaped ones, too. They can be made of
wood, plastic, or metal. Hoops will have a top and a
bottom - the bottom being slightly smaller in diameter
than the top.
You put the
smaller hoop underneath the fabric and place the larger
hoop on top of the fabric directly over the smaller
hoop. Then, you push the larger hoop down over the
smaller one and it will give you a good tension for your
fabric.
On the metal
hoops, there is a spring-like mechanism and it
automatically tightens itself when pushed over the
smaller hoop. On the wood hoops, there is usually a
little screw and you will need to tighten this once you
put the two hoops together.
HINT: When you are embroidering with a hoop,
try to remember to remove the hoop each time you are
finished working on the design. This will help to ensure
that the fabric doesn't become stained or distorted
where the hoop rests.
Q-SNAPS:
Ridged clamps
made of plastic to snap together around your fabric to
create a frame with secure tension for stitching.
Q-snaps come in many sizes so you can make your frame
just right for your stitching. Q-snaps also offers a
floor stand. Visit
Q-snaps.
SCROLL RODS
or FRAMES:
There are
numerous brands of scroll rods/frames. They consist of
two side bars (the size of which determine the height of
your working area) and two dowels for the top and bottom
of the frame. The dowels determine the width of your
work area. And, 4 knobs or wing nuts to tighten and hold
the dowel firmly in place.
The work is
secured to the top & bottom dowels and rolled under
so the desired working area is showing and then
tightened by rolling either the top or bottom dowel and
securing with the knobs or wing nuts to hold the tension
of the fabric.
Some scroll
rods/frames come with twill tape attached that you baste
the top and bottom of your fabric to. Some have a system
to secure the fabric without basting. And, still others
have the top and bottom dowels split so the fabric is
inserted without basting.
Follow the
directions that come with your scroll rod/frame and
attach the fabric to the top dowel first. Roll the top
of the fabric to the desired position and place the side
bars onto the dowels and tighten with the knobs or wing
nuts to hold fabric securely in the top
dowel.
Next, attach
the fabric to the bottom dowel and then roll the fabric
under the bottom dowel until you have a good firm
tension. Slip the side bars onto the bottom dowel and
tighten with the knobs or wing nuts to hold the fabric
with a firm tension.
HINT: Roll the fabric so that the wrong side is
facing outwards on the dowels to keep the fabric clean
while stitching.
SPLIT DOWEL
SYSTEM:
With this
type of Scroll Rod/Frame, you slip the fabric in-between
the slit that runs down the center of the dowels and
then proceed the same as for the regular scroll
rods/frames. One thing that may help with this system is
to fold under about 1/2 inch of each side of your fabric
before slipping it into the slits in the dowels so it
will hold the fabric tightly.
FLOOR STANDS
& LAP STANDS:
There are
numerous types of floor stands and laps stands and
portable stands available. Rather than trying to
describe each one, there is a list of links below so you
can research them yourself and decide what would work
best for you.
American Dream
Products - EZ Stitch No Basting Scroll Frames, Solid
Oak Floor, Lap & Table Stands
Artisan Design, Inc.
- Red Oak Floor, Lap, Table Stands, Scroll Rods &
Magnifier Lights
Gripit Plus, Inc.
-
Hearthside
Craftworks - Solid Oak Floor, Lap, & Table Stands,
Scroll Rods
KD
Needlework Stands - Pine & Oak Floor, Lap, &
Table Stands
K's Creations -
Oak Floor, Lap & Table Stands, Scroll Frames
Lowery Workstands
- Light Weight Steel Floor & Table Stands with
Aluminum Base | 
