Needlework Hints & Tips
 

Preparing to Stitch

The suggestions below are offered from my own experience as well as that of others. As with everything in life, there are many personal opinions about the various methods for stitching and caring for needlework, and the stitcher must decide for themselves what works best for them.

Links to other Needlework Hints & Tips are on the left side of the page.

How To's

Common Fabric Types

Determining Size of Fabric

Preparing to Stitch

Stitching Tips

Reading Needlework Charts

Stitch Diagrams

Working with Beads

Cleaning & Stain Removal

Disaster Fixes

Finishing Ideas

Braided Bellpull

Felt-Backed Finishing

Fringed Pillow

Quilt Strip Pillow

Quilt Strip Wall-Hanging

Stuffed Pillow

Wooden Dowel w/Casing

Wooden Dowel w/Tabs

Ideas for Stitching on Clothing

Needlework Gadgets

Needlework Frames & Stands

Chart Protectors

Dololly

Stitching Needles

Thread Storage

Bead Storage

Stash Storage

Magnifying & Daylight Lamps

Reading Needlework Charts

So, you have decided to learn counted cross stitch. It is great fun and the final results often look like a painting from afar. This page is to help you if you are unfamiliar with how a needlework chart works and what all those little symbols mean and to explain some of the common abbreviations designers use in their directions.

ABBREVIATIONS:

ct - count (fabric count or stitch count)
st - stitch

Rainbow Gallery and Kreinik have a wide range of specialty threads. I've listed a few that are used often.

KREINIK:

BF - Blending Filament

#4 VF Braid - used for #4 Very Fine Braid by Kreinik

#8 F Braid - used for #8 Fine Braid by Kreinik

HL - used after color # and stands for High Lustre for Kreinik threads

RAINBOW GALLERY:

Wisper - A specialty thread made by Rainbow Gallery

S800 - S stands for Splendor - a silk thread from Rainbow Gallery

Gold Rush #12, #14, #18 - various metallics from Rainbow Gallery

Gold Rush XS - fine metallic from Rainbow Gallery

Hi-Lights - a thread pre-blended with metallic from Rainbow Gallery

TB - Treasure Braid #4, #8, #16 - metallic braids from Rainbow Gallery

TB Petite - Treasure

One Symbol with 2 bracketed color numbers - stands for blended needle (or tweeding)

Blended Needle or Tweeding - When the designer wants you to thread your needle with a blend of 2 or more colors of floss and then stitch the cross stitches for that symbol. Usually the combinations are 1 strand each of 2 different color #'s or sometimes 2 strands of 1 color # and 1 strand of the other color #. The exact # of strands to use for each color will be indicated in your color key. Think Teresa Wentzler!

x1 or x2 , etc. - usually used to indicate the # of strands to use for that particular color or stitch.

2 over 2 - indicates to stitch the design 2 over 2 threads on linen/evenweave

1 over 1 - indicates to stitch the design 1 over 1 thread on linen/evenweave

Types of Fabric

Aida - fabric that is divided into distinct squares used for counted cross stitch. Aida is always stitched 1 cross stitch for each 'square' on the fabric.

Evenweave - similar to linen, but the threads are more uniform and the fabric may be thicker than linen. When trying to switch from Aida to linen, it is often easiest to first stitch 2 over 2 on evenweave fabric before attempting 2 over 2 on linen.

Linen - similar to evenweave, but usually a finer weave with thinner threads. Can have thick and thin spots in the threads. These are referred to as 'slubs.' They don't usually interfere with the stitching and it all evens out as you stitch.

Many stitchers learn on Aida and progress to either evenweave or linen as time goes by. They are all beautiful fabrics, but there is something special about stitching on evenweaves and linen (IMHO).

Chart Basics:

Needlework charts consist of a grid with a bold line every between every 10th grid square. So, when you look at a needlwork chart, you can easily count your stitches by knowing that between every bold line there are 10 stitches/grid squares.

WHERE TO BEGIN:

The center of your needlework chart will be indicated by an arrow pointing down from the top and in from the side of the chart. If you take your fingers and follow the center top arrow and the center side arrow, they will meet in the exact center of the chart. Many stitchers choose to begin stitching in the exact center. If you choose to begin here, then mark this spot with a tiny cross stitch or a pin or needle, so you know where to begin stitching.

Beginning at Top, Side, or Bottom: You will need to know how much extra fabric you have allowed around the design. The following directions use the standard 3 inch margin that is usually recommended for needlework.

To begin at the top left: measure in 3 inches from the left side of the fabric and 3 inches down from the top left of the fabric (or the amount of extra fabric you've allowed around the edges of the design). If the chart has symbols all the way in the upper left corner, then you may begin stitching in the top left corner.

If the stitching doesn't come right up to the top left corner, then you need to count how many blank grid squares there are to the first stitch and make a note of that number. Then, from the 3 inch mark, count the same number of Aida squares or twice the number of linen threads (because you are stitching 2 over 2 threads on linen) to reach the place on the fabric that will correspond with the first stitch on the chart.

This same process may be used to begin from the upper right, lower right, or lower left of the design.

If you wish to begin in the top, bottom, or side centers: You will measure in 3 inches (or the amount of extra fabric you've allowed around the edges of the design) from the center line at your desired location. Then, note on the chart if you need to count blank grid squares to reach the first stitch in this area. If so, you will then count this number of Aida squares or twice the number of linen threads to reach the spot to place your first stitch.

SYMBOLS

When you look at a needlework chart, it is a combination of a grid with various symbols in each grid square and maybe dark lines following the edge of the stitches. Each grid square stands for one cross stitch. Each symbol on the chart stands for the color floss (or bead, or specialty thread) that you need to stitch the cross stitch with. If the symbol is for a bead, then follow the directions for attaching beads.

COLOR KEY AND HOW TO READ IT

Your chart will come with a Color Key. Usually at the top of the Color Key will be a note as to how the design is stitched, i.e., Design stitched with 2 strands 2 over 2 threads on linen. This will mean that your cross stitches are stitched over 2 threads up and 2 threads down. Each cross stitch will be stitched over an area of linen that looks this: # Notice that there are two threads running horizontally and two threads running vertically.

The Color Key will usually be separated by:

Brand name of threads
beads
charms/treasures/buttons
Cross Stitches

backstitching
specialty stitches (if used)

Each of these sections will tell you how many strands (may be indicated by (x1) or (x2) note), the color number, sometimes the color name, and sometimes a note that 2 or more skeins/packages are needed.

If the color key isn't separated by brands and types of stitches, then there will be a note next to each symbol and color number to indicate the stitch used and the type of thread (bead/charm/button) used for that symbol.

NUMBER OF SKEINS, CARDS, SPOOLS, PACKAGES TO PURCHASE

Most charts will indicate whether you need 1, 2, or more skeins, spools, or cards of thread or packages of beads. Additional supplies may be indicated by an asterisk beside the color number in the Color Key. The chart may say something like this:

** indicates 2 skeins, cards, spools of thread or 2 packages of beads.
*** indicates 3 skeins, cards, spools of thread or 3 packages of beads.

or the chart may indicate additional skeins with a number within parenthesis next to the floss color. For example:

(2) indicates 2 skeins, cards, spools of thread or 2 packages of beads.
(3) indicates 3 skeins, cards, spools of thread or 3 packages of beads.

Each symbol stands for a color of thread, bead, or specialty thread used and sometimes stands for a specialty stitch to be used with the thread listed. Find this thread, bead, or specialty thread and thread your needle with the indicated number of strands. Stitch one cross stitch (or follow directions for specialty stitches) for each symbol on the chart.

Each time there is a different symbol, you need to check your Color Key for the thread, bead, specialty thread, or specialty stitch to use for this symbol and if there are any special instructions for that color.

BACKSTITCHING

The dark solid lines outlining certain areas of cross stitches indicate backstiching in this area. Follow the lines and backstitch in the color and number of strands indicated in your color key. The color key will list the color # and what portions of the design to backstitch in that color. For example:

DMC #898 - outline of dress, hair, tree
DMC Ecru - designs on dress
DMC #501 - grass

Backstitching may also be indicated by patterned lines, such as dotted lines, dashed lines, etc. These are usually used when several colors of backstitching are used. It will help you to know where to stitch each color of backstitching.

SIZE OF DESIGN

All charts will indicate the size of the design in inches and in stitch count. This may be indicated on the cover page, Color Key (back page), or with the instructions included inside the leaflet/chartpak. And, the type of fabric used to stitch the model is usually listed along with the sizes.

Look for something like this (ct stands for count):

Model stitched on 32 ct linen - Blue Silk from Wichelt Imports #65-143

Design Count: 256 wide x 309 height

Design Size: 16" wide x 19-1/4" height

With this information, you can easily figure the size of the design on any count fabric you choose to stitch with. Here's how:

Assuming the design is stitched 2 over 2 threads (which will also be indicated on the Color Key), then the count you are stitching is 1/2 the count of the linen/evenweave/fabric:

40 ct fabric = 20 ct stitching
36 ct fabric = 18 ct stitching
32 ct fabric = 16 ct stitching
30 ct fabric = 15 ct stitching
28 ct fabric = 14 ct stitching
25 ct fabric = approx. 12 ct stitching (12.5)
27 ct fabric = approx. 13 ct stitching (13.5)
26 ct fabric = 13 ct stitching
22 ct fabric = 11 ct stitching
20 ct fabric = 10 ct stitching
19 ct fabric = approx. 9 ct stitching (9.5)
18 ct fabric = 9 ct stitching
16 ct fabric = 8 ct stitching
14 ct fabric = 7 ct stitching

7 ct, 8 ct, and 10 ct fabrics are usually stitched over 1 so the stitching count is the same as the fabric count.

To figure out the size of your finished design on a different count fabric than the pattern calls for, you need to divide the Design Count both for width and height by 1/2 the number of the fabric count.

So, the above design when stitched on 28 count would be:

256 divided by 14 = 18-1/4" width

309 divided by 14 = 22" height

From these width and height calculations, you can now figure out what size fabric you need to stitch the design by adding the recommended 3" extra fabric to the width and height, you would purchase 28 ct fabric in this size below.

18-1/4" plus 3" = 21-1/4" width

22" plus 3" = 25" height

Note: the amount of extra fabric needed can vary depending on your method of finishing the design. If you are planning on using mats with the frame, ask you shopowner or framer how much extra fabric they will need to finish the design this way.

If you are finishing as a pillow, bell-pull, tote bag, ornament, etc., you will need to figure out how much extra fabric you need if you want to use the extra Linen/Aida for finishing. Sometimes the design will come with instructions and you can check these for how much extra Linen/Aida you will need. Or, you can ask your shopowner's advice on the amount of extra needed.

 

 
 


 
 
 



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